Camino del Norte: An 8-Day Hike Through Northern Spain: Part 1
Camino del Norte: An 8-Day Hike Through Northern Spain
Part 1: Bilbao + the First 4 Days of the Hike
Our family friend and Courtni (she’s also our outside agent Teresa’s daughter!) completed the daunting Camino del Norte hike in Northern Spain. The full route is over 800 kilometers long, which would take about 35 days to complete. Courtni and her group, including father Jeff, decided to hike from Mondonedo to Santiago. The 150 km hike took them 8 days to complete. In order to receive a compostela – the certificate which proves you’ve completed the Camino – you must hike at least 100 km.
Let’s start from the beginning of Courtni’s journey and look at her full itinerary at a glance:
5/26: 8 pm flight from Chicago to Bilbao, Spain
5/27 Land in Bilbao at 4:15 PM local time.
5/28: Stay in an AirBnB in the Old Town area of Bilbao.
5/29: Private transfer from Bilbao to Mondonedo, about a 4 hour trip.
5/30: Hike Mondonedo to Abadin: 16.8 km (10.4 miles).
5/31: Hike Abadin to Vilalba: 21 km (13 miles).
6/1: Hike Vilalba to Baamonde: 14.6 km (9.9 miles).
6/2: Hike Baamonde to Miraz: 13 km (8 miles).
6/3: Hike Miraz to Sobrado dos Manxes: 25.6 km (15.9 miles).
6/4: Hike Sobrado dos Manxes to Arzua: 22 km (13.7 miles).
6/5: Hike Arzua to Arca: 18 km (11.2 miles).
6/6: Hike Arca to Santiago: 21 km (13 miles).
6/7: Explore Santiago + afternoon trip to Padron via taxi.
6/8: Day trip from Santiago to Finisterre and other coastal towns.
6/9: Fly from Santiago to Dublin with a 5:05 PM departure and overnight in Dublin.
6/10: Fly from Dublin to Chicago, arriving 2 PM local time.
Day 1 (5/28): Bilbao
For the purposes of this article, we are going to refer to Bilboa (5/28) as “Day One” of Courtni’s trip since it is the first full day. Courtni and her group arrived in Bilbao at 4:15 PM local time and stayed at an AirBnB in the Old Town area.
The Casco Viejo “Old Town” is the oldest and most historical area in Bilbao, with narrow streets and winding alleys, plus many restaurants and bakeries.
While in Bilbao, Courtni and her group also explored La Ribera Market. This market houses dozens of stalls selling everything from fresh fish and vegetables to hot tapas and takeaway meals.
Art is a huge part of the culture in Bilbao. It is home to a Guggenheim Museum, but you’ll also notice street art everywhere you turn. Courtni notes that both the train station and the Ribera Market have beautiful stained-glass windows that tell stories of the region.
The Guggenheim Museum is an enormous abstract structure with a variety of outdoor sculptures including a bronze spider with an egg sac and a scottie dog made of living flowers. They also have temporary installations like the fire fountains, which only come on in the evenings.
One important piece of advice is to use the Nervión River which cuts through the city as your guide while exploring Bilbao.
Day 2 (5/29): Private Transfer from Bilbao to Mondonedo
On the second full day, Courtni and her crew made the 4 hour jounrey to Mondonedo. They used a company called UrbanTaxi, which specializes in getting hikers to small towns on the Camino route.
Here they stayed the night in the Hotel Montero. Hotel Montero is part hotel and part albergue, otherwise known as a pilgrim’s hostel.
Day 3 (5/30): Hike Mondonedo to Abadin
On Day 3, Courtni and her group began their hike of Camino del Norte. On this first day they hiked 16.8 km (10.4 miles). The group stared out by passing through the Cathedral Square in Mondonedo, which is where you can choose one of two paths out of the city on your way to Abadin. One is shorter but steeper, while the other is a more leisurely path (though still plenty of climbing involved!). Their group decided on the more leisurely route.
The first day was hot and hilly and they soon learned there were no services on the path – as in no cafes or bathrooms for breaks. There was one small homeshare that the group came across at the very beginning of the day that offered tea, but they didn’t stop there because they assumed there would be more along the way. Luckily they packed enough food and water for the 5 hours of hiking to the next town.
After the 5 hour hike, the group checked into the albergue, or pilgrim’s hostel. It cost 6 euros per night but was a surprisingly great facility – clean, shared bathrooms, plenty of bunk beds and even a kitchen. They went to the local grocery store for cured meats, cheese, olives, and bread for dinner and breakfast the next morning. There are cafes in Abadin, but they didn’t open for dinner until 8-9 PM. As you can imagine, the group was exhausted so they opted for their groceries!
Day 4 (5/31): Hike Abadin to Vilalba
On the fourth day of their trip and the second day of their hike, the group set out for Vilalba. The hike from Abadin to Vilalba is 21 km (13 miles).
About 4 miles into the hike, the group stopped at an albergue in OXistral for refreshments. The woman hosting made the group tea, coffee, tortilla Espanola (a favorite for hikers including fresh eggs, cheese and potatoes), croissants, and torta de Santiago (an almond cake).
Though Day 2 of their hike was another hot day, they did witness a spectacular sight: a brilliant all-white peacock.
While on the trail, a man drove up to them with an ad for an albergue in Vilalba. They decided to take him up on the offer and stayed there that night at the Albergue Turístico Castelos, pictured above. It had semi-private rooms, laundry facilities, and was located on the far end of the city which would give them a head start on their hike the next morning.
Vilalba is bigger than Abadin and Mondonedo so the group spent the evening exploring the city and drinking wine at a cafe with other “pilgrims” before heading to bed early.
Day 5 (6/1): Hike Vilalba to Baamonde
The third hike day was shorter than the previous day, but not by much. They hiked about 15.6 km (9.9 miles) to the town of Baamonde.
Although this was the hottest day of the trip, the hiking was overall smooth and they ended up loving Baamonde. It had the best food and a beautiful park and swimming hole.
The group ate at KM101, a restaurant named because it’s located 101 km from Santiago, the final destination of the Camino.
That night they stayed at the Albergue de Peregrinos de Baamonde.
Day 6 (6/2): Hike Baamonde to Miraz
The fourth day of their journey took them 13 km (8 miles) from Baamonde to Miraz. Miraz is very small so they made a stop for dinner and breakfast supplies on their way in. They cooked at their hostel, the Albergue de San Martin, and enjoyed their time with the hosts. The hostel is run by the Confraternity of St. James, UK. Volunteers take two-week shifts to man the lodging and make breakfast for the hikers. While all of the lodging on the Camino was very cheap (between 6-10 euros per night), this place only asked for donations, whatever you could give.
Stay tuned for the last 4 days of Courtni’s journey, plus details of her time spent in Santiago.
Camino del Norte: An 8-Day Hike Through Northern Spain
Part 2: The Last 4 Days of the Hike + Santiago
Check out Part 1 of this epic hike through Northern Italy here. Part 1 left off in Miraz on day four. Here is the full itinerary in case you missed part 1:
5/26: 8 pm flight from Chicago to Bilbao, Spain
5/27 Land in Bilbao at 4:15 PM local time.
5/28: Stay in an AirBnB in the Old Town area of Bilbao.
5/29: Private transfer from Bilbao to Mondonedo, about a 4 hour trip.
5/30: Hike Mondonedo to Abadin: 16.8 km (10.4 miles).
5/31: Hike Abadin to Vilalba: 21 km (13 miles).
6/1: Hike Vilalba to Baamonde: 14.6 km (9.9 miles).
6/2: Hike Baamonde to Miraz: 13 km (8 miles).
6/3: Hike Miraz to Sobrado dos Manxes: 25.6 km (15.9 miles).
6/4: Hike Sobrado dos Manxes to Arzua: 22 km (13.7 miles).
6/5: Hike Arzua to Arca: 18 km (11.2 miles).
6/6: Hike Arca to Santiago: 21 km (13 miles).
6/7: Explore Santiago + afternoon trip to Padron via taxi.
6/8: Day trip from Santiago to Finisterre and other coastal towns.
6/9: Fly from Santiago to Dublin with a 5:05 PM departure and overnight in Dublin.
6/10: Fly from Dublin to Chicago, arriving 2 PM local time.
*Note: we are using 5/28, the group’s first full day, as “Day One”. This post will start with Day 7 (6/3), when Courtni and her crew hike from Miraz to Sobrado dos Manxes.
Day 7 (6/3): Hike Miraz to Sobrado dos Manxes
The hike from Miraz to Sobrado dos Manxes is a 25.6 km (15.9 mile) trek. This was the group’s longest distance hiked in one day. Thankfully they left the heat behind in Miraz and enjoyed a more pleasant temp with light rain and misty conditions for their fifth day of hiking.
While there, the group stayed at the Monasterio de Santa Maria de Sobrado. The Sobrado dos Manxes is a monastery, which also offers an albergue for pilgrims. “It was definitely the most unique place we stayed – it had the s=usual bunk beds and decent shared bathroom facilities, but also beautiful stonework and courtyards and art,” Courtni explained.
Day 8 (6/4): Hike Sobrado dos Manxes to Arzua
The group had more rain on their sixth day of hiking, which entailed 22 km (13.7) miles of terrain. They stayed at the .Albergue O Santo, which was a very nice and more private hostel. They also make and serve their own ice cream here! For dinner, they enjoyed a warm dish of paella at Bar o Casqueiros, just across the street from O Santo.
Day 9 (6/5): Hike Arzua to Arca
The hike from Arzua to Arca was 18 km (11.2 miles) and this was where the groups route on the Camino del Norte merged to join the Camino Frances, the original route of the Camino and the most popular. Courtni explained, “the difference was notable, with many more services along the route, as well as many more people. We were no longer alone on the trails for any period of time.”
One highlight during this particular day was a a bar on the road selling Peregrino beer and encouraging drinkers to write on the bottle and then hang it on one of the many nails hammered into trees or other structures. “It was a gimmick that had us drinking a beer at 9:30 in the morning, but we appreciated the experience all the same,” Courtni says.
That night, the group ate dinner at a place called Taste the Way. They offered a fantastic gourmet menu for very reasonable prices. The group shared a cheese plate and also ordered the menu del dia, which consisted of choices of two courses plus desert and wine, coffee or tea. The Galician soup was an overall favorite, especially since this was their third day of rainy hiking weather. That night they stayed in the Albergue Porta de Santiago.
Day 10 (6/6): Hike Arca to Santiago
On this 21 km (13 mile) hike from Arca to Santiago, the group experienced lots of rain and extreme wind. Despite the unpleasant weather conditions, the group made it to the finish line: the Cathedral of Santiago. Now they can officially say they have walked the Camino de Santiago! When they arrived, they went to the pilgrim’s office to turn in their passports and get their certificates. That night, they stayed in an AirBmB down the street from the Cathedral de Santiago Square.
Day 11 (6/7): Exploring Santiago + Day trip to Padron
The next day in Santiago, the group picked up their compostelas/certificates and then explored more of Santiago. They were finally blessed with some sun and also got their first taste of churros with chocolate. Courtni and her crew spent the afternoon in Padron, a city about 15 miles south of Santiago. They ate the famous Padron peppers, explored the natural areas and walked along the water.
Day 12 (6/8): Santiago + Galicia Incoming Tour to Finisterre and other Coastal Towns
Click here for a full description of their Galicia Incoming tour to Finisterre from Santiago. In addition to this itinerary, this day was the group’s opportunity to appreciate the amazing seafood offered int he region. They tasted Galician octopus, hake, razor clams, mussels, shrimp, scallops and more.
Day 13 (6/9): Time to Depart – but first, Dublin!
On 6/9 it was time to begin their journey back to the states. The group flew from Santiago to Dublin with an overnight layover in Dublin. They stayed in StayCity apartment in the Temple Bar area for the night. That night, they at at the Old Storehouse for dinner and enjoyed live Irish music and a lively atmosphere for a Sunday night.
Day 14 (6/10): Fly from Dublin to Chicago
Finally it was time to head back to the states. The group departed Dublin at 11:30 AM and landed in Chicago around 2 PM local time.
Want to learn more about the Camino del Norte or any of the towns Courtni’s group visited along their route? Call us today at 402-390-9291 to speak to one of our Europe travel specialists or get started here.